Adieu, Chaps

I just read that Pierre Chapoutot died a few days in an avalanche. He was a pioneering rock climber and mountaineer, and his first ascents are ubiquitous and numerous, particularly in the Oisans. He maintained a fantastic blog about his adventures which I enjoyed greatly. One of his first ascents was a route up the Bastion Centrale of La Meije, and he generously provided me with detailed information on the route. Here is an excerpt from his emails

If you want a long and beautiful climb without any people, in a splendid atmosphere, you can choose the "Bastion Central" route + upper part of Dibona-Mayer. It is in the same grade as the Pierre Allain, but longer and more sustained. Equipment : all the belays, and few pegs or spits (6 in all !) in the pitches. It ends between 2d and 3d Tooth between the Grand Pic and the Doigt de Dieu, and from this point it is not easy at all to reach the Grand Pic (horrific rappel from 1st Tooth to the Breche Zsigmondy !). So, it is reasonable to choose the way back on the Doigt de Dieu. I think that this route is the most beautiful on the whole South Face... mais c'est un point de vue très personnel


Unfortunately I wasn't able to round up a partner for La Meije before I left, and now I'll never be able to email him back and tell him what a fantastic route it is.