Tuesday, July 20, 2010

MORE climbing!

Chloe and I did our first multi pith route in a loooooong time. I wanted something easy, but we got a little sandbagged on a 150meter 6c. The approach is short by local standards, but long for out-of-hiking-shape people like us. It was something like 600 meters of elevation gain and more than an hour of walking up sometimes steep grades. Finding the base of the route was also a challenge, as our guidebook author has chosen the popular "draw the cliff by hand" method of topo illustration rather than the boring but accurate "take a goddam picture" method. Anyway, we got on the route, and immediately realized that this was not going to be so easy. It was a gigantic slab with very few positive holds. While I started climbing on terrain like that in SoCal, I do not enjoy slab climbing, and very quickly we found ourselves in the weeds, with throbbing toes and injured pride. I had my helmet cam on, and set it to take pictures automatically... and then forgot about it. As a result, I have a collection of comically random shots of the climb:











The last shot is very illustrative of the pain: I NEVER take my shoes of on long climbs, because I have an irrational fear of dropping them. In this case, the pain was too much, though. If I had any sense at all, I would not have gotten on a climb called "Dalles Noires d'Enfer": Black Slabs of Hell.. or maybe Hellish Black Slabs? Black Hell Slabs?

We rapped down just as the clouds rolled in and lightning strafed the higher peaks


That's Roche Robert on the left, above the chalet.

Monday, July 19, 2010

More climbing

Climbing at the same place as yesterday, but Alex was awake more than he was asleep last night, so neither of us were feeling very lively. I got up early to take Alex around town, since there was no other way to get him to stop crying. Some photos of the town:


There is a fountain that produces hot water!

A picture Zoe took in the tent:

Thomas climbing

Zoe scoping out the climb

and then pulling down on limestone!


Climbing!

We did a few routes at "le Rocher qui Repond", and Zoe had a chance to play with balls, build rock walls and try to catch crickets





I also got a quick ride to Col de Lautaret: the grades are not extreme, but there was a strong headwind, and a LOT of cars. Continuing on to Galibier looks difficult.

Climbing in the morning, cycling in the afternoon, and and BBQ in the evening. Perfection!

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Chalet Rental!


The story of the bike rack

The task was simple: buy a device to transport bikes up to Monetier. Unfortunately, it turned out to be a three day epic, thanks to Norauto. The first rack, which was dutifully looked up for compatibility with our car by a helpful salesman, turned out to be about 7 inches (18 cm) too short for the Civic, and could also potentially shatter the glass on the tailgate. The second solution offered (and again confirmed for compatibility) was a set of rooftop rails, which turned out to have bindings that were not wide enough to mount on our roof bars. Strike two. The final solution turned out to work, but was very expensive (top of the line rooftop rails). They also only credited me for the return of only one of the two rails from yesterday. Clearly, none of the salespeople, from junior clerks to supervisor had any idea what they were doing. It was a bit disheartening, since I was hoping that the general level of aptitude would be higher in France than the states, but it seems about the same. The only differences are: nicer uniforms and more polite salespeople in France. Oh, and 1.5 fold higher prices.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Zoe attacks!

Zoe mounts an assault on Alex's crib

Sauron Transports

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

14 Juillet

We went to see fireworks today with Ian and Susan. It took me a little while to remember where the entrance to the road that goes up to the University housing and the Bastille starts, but we eventually found it and wheeled the stroller up a few switchbacks. The fireworks were excellent, and Zoe loved them. She was chattering about the colors, but we couldn't really figure out what she was saying: either "eat the colors!" or "a mix of colors!". I'm assuming it was the latter. Zoe also got a big bag of Tour de France swag from Ian and Susan, which was a big hit. Also worth mentioning was a brief trip to l'Arche des Fruits.


Wonderful hike near la Grande Sure

We drove up to col de la Charmette today for a hike to the Grande Sure. However, during the hike Zoe enjoyed her very first PB&J sandwich (which she loved),

After lunch, we continued up the forested paths, past several cave openings, and eventually crested a small pass between the rocks and were amazed to see a beautiful grassy valley open up in front of us.




There is a spring along the valley floor where other people were filling their canteens, so we did the same. The water was ice cold and a perfect antidote for the heat. Our goal had been to walk up the Grande Sure, but because of the pain inflicted on us by a combination of a rather weighty baby and a norwegian torture device known as a "Baby Bjorn", which offers nothing in the way of hip support or padding, we turned around early. From a map that I borrowed, it looks as if you can hike up from Mont Saint MArtin, as well, which might be fun (but long). There is also an approach from Placette.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Axes

Last week I read an article about a guy who makes designer axes in New York. Although I am a city person, I've spent a reasonable amount of time in the mountains, and a reasonable amount of that time cutting through brush and trees with various tools. I've used machetes, small axes, big axes, Japanese axes and even considered borrowing a Japanese sword when things were looking particularly hopeless. I've coveted fancy handmade Swedish axes (and yielded to their siren song), but the best human powered tool I've used is an old American axe head mounted on a new handle. All the rest have critical problems: the machetes don't have enough mass and don't hold their edges; the Japanese axes, while razor sharp, require you to bend over too far to cut. I bought my axe from a no nonsense Canoe builder in Maine who basically asked me if I was man enough for one of his axes. In fact, he asked me if I was an "office type" (his exact words!). He somewhat begrudgingly sold it to me, and I am very happy he did: it holds its edge well and has perfect balance and weight for even a full day of axing. However, now I'm wondering if what my axe really needs is a paint job from a New York artist in his TriBeCa studio!




Peter Buchanan-Smith and the Urban Ax
By PENELOPE GREEN

IN the year since Peter Buchanan-Smith started selling axes, his dog died, he and his wife separated and he sold the house he thought he would grow old in at a big loss. Also, he parted ways with his business partner.

This is not to suggest cause and effect. Or to imply that Mr. Buchanan-Smith, a graphic designer who has advised Isaac Mizrahi and Philip Glass, redesigned two icons — Paper magazine and, with Maira Kalman, Strunk & White’s “Elements of Style” — and won a Grammy for an album cover he made for his favorite band, Wilco, is in any way down on his luck. The axes, you see, have done really well.

Made by a secret source in Maine, and hand-painted by Mr. Buchanan-Smith, 38, in his TriBeCa studio (with the help of two art school interns and a full-time employee), the sturdy and beautiful hatchets have gone viral.

After Andy Spade, the brander, entrepreneur and husband of Kate Spade, put one in Partners & Spade, his quasi-gallery, in May 2009, design bloggers and the design news media trumpeted the “authenticity” of this manly tool — and then promoted it largely as an art object. This was both irritating and pleasing to Mr. Buchanan-Smith, who says that he constantly worries that he’ll be perceived as “just some design hipster kicking it old-school selling some chic tools to a handful of other hipsters.”

Still, seven of his axes are hanging in the Saatchi Gallery in London. Seth Godin, the entrepreneur and marketing guru, has one, and so do Leonard Lauder, David Lynch and Mike Jones, the president of MySpace.

Even real woodsmen and -women have bought them, as you can see from the comments and photographs on Mr. Buchanan-Smith’s new Web site, Bestmadeco.com, which he has created to be as much of a community center for outdoorsy types like himself as an online emporium. (Mr. Buchanan-Smith, who grew up on a farm in Ontario, has a pre-New York résumé of Hemingway-like experiences, including a job planting trees in Northern Ontario, artificially inseminating sows in Scotland and coming “this close” to joining the British Army.)

One morning late last winter, a barista at the City Girl Café on Thompson Street who was making coffee for a bleary-eyed Mr. Buchanan-Smith startled his customer by exclaiming, “You’re the ax man!” The barista, who had seen Mr. Buchanan-Smith’s photo in New York magazine, then worked out a payment plan to buy one. (Axes start at $180.)

And so it was that by late last month, after the rush of Father’s Day shopping — with panicked wives and daughters buying axes at the last minute — and a wild morning on Gilt Groupe, the online private sale site, during which 100 axes were bought in one hour, Mr. Buchanan-Smith realized all of them had been sold.

“Not that we’re making any money,” he said. “We’re just breaking even.”

But he has clearly struck a nerve. At a time when entire neighborhoods (like Williamsburg, Brooklyn, or the Outer Mission in San Francisco) are being remodeled by young entrepreneurs selling limited-edition handcrafted products like handmade cheeses, or exhuming old ones, like Edison light bulbs, or teaching their peers how to butcher the deer they bagged over the weekend — that is, selling products and skills that hark back to a pre-megabrand, pre-globalism world — someone like Mr. Buchanan-Smith can become a mini-star, the designer-turned-merchant, a Martha Stewart for this millennium.

And as the exultation of the “authentic” reaches near-hilarious heights in the design community, with young bloggers creating endless catalogs of “authentic” items like denim or Prouvé chairs, it’s not hard to see how a simple handmade ax, and all it implies (a knowledge of wood craft, or the ability to split a log or pitch a tent), would find an eager market.

Paola Antonelli, the senior curator of architecture and design at the Museum of Modern Art (and a former teacher of Mr. Buchanan-Smith’s at the School of Visual Arts), described his axes as “the ultimate antidote to life on the high-broadband lane.”

She added: “Tools, especially beautifully crafted ones, are irresistible, and it is not only a guys’ thing. If hardware store catalogs are already enough to make us swoon, imagine a collection of perfectly crafted axes. They shoot an electric shock right smack into the archipallium.” (For those of you who can’t quickly look up this last word, the archipallium is the oldest part of the brain.)

In any case, Mr. Buchanan-Smith is happily down the rabbit hole of a new business and life. He has settled into a 500-square-foot one-bedroom apartment in Greenwich Village (rent: $2,600) with a few choice possessions: the last stick his dog retrieved before she had to be put down, a pipe he made when he was 12 and messing around in his father’s workshop on their farm in Ontario and his grandfather’s kilt in the family tartan.

And there are new products: a handmade rope ladder, a pocket hatchet, a toolbox and a nifty leather sling that looks like a backpack but accommodates only Mr. Buchanan-Smith’s camp ax.

He’d like to work with a Canadian company to sell its Sou’wester, an oiled-canvas rain hat. He is intrigued by the work of two Brooklyn artists, Gabriel Cohen and Jolie Mae Signorile, who collect tropical bird feathers from aviaries and make arrows out of them. And he has commissioned a designer he met at an art camp in Minnesota to make vintage maps stamped with the Best Made Co. symbol, a bright red cross.

“With the ax, I wanted to do something simple and sweet,” he said. “It was like an invitation to this world I wanted to create. The world of making things where notions of courage and fortitude are associated with it, but also playfulness and levity.”

Mr. Buchanan-Smith has always been interested in the small stuff. For his thesis project at the School of Visual Arts, which he later turned into a book, “Speck: A Curious Collection of Uncommon Things,” published by Princeton Architectural Press, he invited artists and other obsessives to explore everyday ephemera — things like dust, the inside of a pocketbook, the bottoms of sneakers — in words and pictures.

Kim Hastreiter, an editor of Paper magazine and his former boss, said: “Peter is like a regular guy with an eccentric way of thinking, and he’s interested in things that function. You know he loves a Shaker table. He probably loves a yellow pencil or a bar of Ivory soap or a paper clip or a well-designed tube of toothpaste. It’s all about stuff that’s what it is. That’s an idea that’s really popular right now.”

Yet despite the appetites of fashion, said Mr. Mizrahi, for whom Mr. Buchanan-Smith has worked as a graphic designer for years, it’s not an affectation. “I think it’s a real connection to the manly ax and what it says about his manliness,” Mr. Mizrahi said. “If he’s passionate, and I think he is, other things will come from that.”

FIVE years ago, Mr. Buchanan-Smith was leading a charmed life, designing for Mr. Mizrahi, Paper magazine and others. He had won a Grammy and married his girlfriend, the author Amy Gray, on his family farm in Ontario. The two bought an immaculate Victorian in Maplewood, N.J., that had been restored by a man who made couture wedding dresses for New Jersey debutantes.

There was a rose garden. They had Maisie, a border collie, “who was like our first-born child,” he said. Life chugged along.

But in 2008, the engine sputtered and ran out of gas. Work dried up, and Mr. Buchanan-Smith closed his Midtown office, laid off his assistant, whom he could no longer pay, and moved his studio to his garage in New Jersey. He filled it with tools and woodworking equipment and started building things like bookshelves and “weird signs” to put on the walls.

“It was great to make stuff again,” he said. “As soon as you move to New York, you kiss your tools goodbye.”

Then came the ax epiphany. When Graeme Cameron, a Canadian environmental entrepreneur and Mr. Buchanan-Smith’s best friend from summer camp, came to visit that January, the two embarked on a gastronomic adventure to prepare Mr. Cameron’s birthday dinner — a whole day spent gathering ingredients in Manhattan, like $200 worth of wagyu. But when they realized they wanted to cook that pricey steak on an open grill, they were stymied.

Long story short: in searching for an ax to chop wood small enough to make a really hot fire (charcoal wouldn’t do, he said), all they could find was a cheap plastic-handled number from Home Depot.

“So I made it my mission to right the wrong,” Mr. Buchanan-Smith said. “I started collecting beautiful old axes from eBay and researching where the best ones were made now. And then things started to move really fast.”

He and Mr. Cameron collaborated on a new-old object based on memories of a perfect tool used long ago at summer camp. They found an established company in Maine that made an ax that fit their criteria. Then Mr. Buchanan-Smith stained, branded and painted it, and they invented Best Made Co., to fit their totemic ax.

Meanwhile, Mr. Buchanan-Smith’s marriage had foundered. Maisie, the border collie, was diagnosed with a rare brain disease and had to be put down. The immaculate Victorian had to be sold, at a $100,000 loss, and emptied of its contents.

“I felt like a refugee,” Mr. Buchanan-Smith said. “There’s a real loneliness when you get divorced, and if you’re a guy it’s not like people are running to comfort you. I felt like a total outcast, like I had some communicable disease. The married friends, the wives almost see you as a threat.”

By April, he and Mr. Cameron had parted, too.

“Graeme has a 2-year-old, he just bought a house, he has a lot on his plate,” Mr. Buchanan-Smith said. “It’s going to take us a while to get through our divorce, but we will get through. It’s like brothers having a falling out. We both took stock, realized it’s time for the second album. The first one did really well. But it doesn’t make sense to do the second one together.”

Mr. Cameron, who lives in Toronto, agreed that the “distance was impossible.” Also, he runs a company that manufactures products to clean up oil spills, so he’s a little busy right now. In addition, he’s working on building his own outdoor brand, “one that’s focused less on design and more on function,” he said, describing a line of tools “essential for surviving in the bush.” Will it compete with Best Made? “When it comes to an ax, it will,” he said.

On a recent morning in Mr. Buchanan-Smith’s bright TriBeCa studio, his ax-finishing crew of four was putting his pocket hatchets into their plain wooden boxes. He jumped up to show a reporter his rope ladder, and a stiff canvas satchel made by an American company, Archival Clothing, “that I could see passing down to my son,” he said. “I don’t care how many we sell, it’s just part of the story, the stuff that matters. Something that came through on Father’s Day, when we invited people to write about their fathers’ tools on the Web site, was this recurring theme of fathers who could never be what they wanted to be, a generation of men who lost out, who had to do what was expected of them.”

There were also tributes to fathers like Tibor Kalman, the designer; his daughter Lulu wrote about the veal shoulder Mr. Kalman liked to make in an old casserole, turning the roast with his bare hands.

“Peter has a great interest in the artifacts of daily life, and it happens that he was interested in an ax,” said Lulu’s mother, Maira Kalman, a longtime mentor and collaborator of Mr. Buchanan-Smith’s. “If he can make a living from it, that’s even more fantastic. But it’s really about the exploration of the object, and the exploration of being an entrepreneur, and how do you that in an honorable way, a kind way?”

Back in Mr. Buchanan-Smith’s studio, his two interns were packing up hatchets. Taylor Couture, 21, was tucking blades into muslin bags and laying the axes in their nests of wood wool. Then she began adding the hang tags, which everyone signed. She paused briefly to answer a question about why the axes were so popular.

“It really corners a section of the market,” she said. “No one else makes this, it’s unique, there’s a limited amount and it’s made by hand. The next company to come along and make a hand-forged, hand-painted ax is going to be, like, hmmm.”

Sunday, July 11, 2010

BBQ

more barbecueing today: at our friends place in Rochepleine. An old friend of ours from San Diego was also there, which was great. We discovered that Alex LOVES watermelon:

And Zoe was towed around on a litte inflatable throne like a princess by our friend JB's daughters:



Morning ride

I left early-ish for a longer ride into the Chartreuse, via Placette and up the North side of Porte (which I had never done before). It was nice and cool for most of the route, and it has to be said that we live in incredibly beautiful area. The gorge right after St. Laurent du Pont in particular is stunning. I didn't break any personal power records, but that's expected. I also flatted AGAIN. The plus side was that it was right next to a public water source with ice cold mountain water. Ubiquitous water fountains are one of the unsung heroes of cycling in France -- particularly in the mountains on a hot day. Another unsung hero: seeing awesome Italian cars (like the Countach in the video) that are being *driven* rather than posed in or next to by bankers.

Here's a video of a few sections of the ride. I've decided that I will be applying the most ridiculous un-cycling music that I can find to this and future videos just for fun. Rihanna was my first choice, but the youtube copyrighted music finder flagged it. View in 720p for extra Lambo viewing pleasure.

The route


62 km/ 38 miles
1340 meters/ 4400 feet of climbing

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Another hot day

Today we braved the heat and headed into town. We returned some Zoe shoes, then had lunch at Pivano (just ok)

and then Zoe and I explored the museum. Zoe took this picture of me:

along with maybe twenty pictures of my feet and the floor.
They had opened the tower for an exhibit on ASIA. no matter that they mixed together Japanese, Chinese and India! The unifying theme was that it all came from one collection, but it's a little odd seeing pieces from such different cultures and periods next to each other. The tower had a very impressive roof:

The entrance to the exhibit had several interesting weapons, including this goat mallet

which, assuming it isn't some kind of standard, looks like a wicked thing to be swinging around on a battlefield. There was also this beautiful blade from THE ORIENT (seriously, a beautiful blade though)

And then Zoe took me to the Matisse room

and to our favorite room with scenes near Grenoble

And then of course L'Arche aux Fruits

Thursday, July 08, 2010

macbook drive dead

The drive in my macbook air died a few days ago. Happily, I found an ebay seller in China with replacement drives (was kind of tempted to get a solid state drive, but decided it wasnt't worht it with the PATA). Anyway, the macbook air is SMALL on the inside, and required removing 17screws of ~4 different lengths in order to get at the drive. The so called "zero insertion force" connector turned out to require a troubling amount of force to re-connect, but everything went well and the macbook is working again. Woo!

Charmette

Today I perhaps ill-advisedly decided to ride up to col de la Charmette after work. It was a very hot day and the lower section up through Proveysieux was pretty brutal. Right before the town, an old man shouted encouragement (in the US, the equivalent behavior would be to have a soda thrown at you) and then said something else. All I could make out was "mourir", which means "to die". It is possible that he was saying you are totally NOT going to die, but I think it was actually something about my trying to die. Anyway, not something you really want to hear when you are barely a quarter of the way up. The climb past Pomarey just seems to go on for ever. Happily, it is a beautiful tree shaded road, with a creek or river somewhere nearby offering natural air conditioning. Even better: it is a dead end road, so there are none of the usual morons redlining their Renault Clios. On balance, a very enjoyable road, but quite challenging for my still recovering back and legs. I circled around at the col, at which point the bugs came out in a malevolent cloud of bitingness. No problems at descent speeds, though (unless they are bees which get trapped in your jersey like last week). Unfortunately, my tire went flat right before a sharp turn and I nearly rolled the tire of the rim. Once I came to stop, I was of course attacked by various biting flies and wasps, many of which died on the comfy gel pads of my Roeckl gloves. Eventually, I was on my way again though. Unfortunately, about 1 km later, I flatted again! I eventually made it home to le Fontanil without calling the sag wagon.

the route
18 miles, 3400 vertical of climbing. Lots of steepness.

I swapped the audio out with something better than the clicks and rattles of the camera

Tuesday, July 06, 2010

proveysieux via quaix

waaaay too hot! I also got stung by a bee in the neck on the way down. The velogods are not smiling upon me

Friday, July 02, 2010

poo extravaganza

A few days ago I was home with Zoe while Chloe was out with Alex. I was cleaning up while Zoe played in her room. Very soon, I was greeted with mild terror that many parents experience when they don't hear the usual kid-cacophony. I rushed out to the living room to find Zoe, naked and sitting on her blanket looking down at the Boulangerie (A favorite occupation of hers). Not good. I looked in the next room and found a gigantic poo in her potty. Those two items together spelled trouble, and more specifically the kind of trouble that involves poo in places where there should not be any poo. I quickly wiped her down and then threw her blanket (named "Babu", which goes wherever she does) into the wash on MAXIMUM POO REMOVAL mode, and then began the task of retracing her footsteps. It all looked pretty good. Major disasters were averted, and I made myself a tea and sat down on my desk chair, where I discovered that Zoe had been sitting a bit ... earlier. I think you know what that means.

life in Grenoble, France as an expat postdoc
life in Grenoble, France as an expat scientist
life in San Francisco, CA as a biotech nerd life in Grenoble, France as an expat scientist

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