Saturday, January 02, 2010

watches

I enjoy looking at mechanical watches -- particularly those that expose the movement of the watch in some way or another. If you have never seen a full "skeleton" watch (a watch in which the faceplate has been removed), they are worth seeking out, as they are truly amazing. Even partial skeletons or transparent backs are beautiful. Here are some things about high end watches that the unacquainted might find interesting:



The Tourbillon
: In addition to complications (moon phase, alternative time zone, moon phase etc.), watches can contain single or multi axis "tourbillon". Tourbillon are essentially mechanical cages that rotate on single or multiple axes to counteract the effects of gravity. Like anything else cool in the realm of the high end watch, the down side is the cost. A multi axis Jaeger gyrotourbillon will set you back $3-400,000!

Jewels: Anyone with a passing familiarity with watches has seen the term "jewels" associated with watches. These are rubies or sapphires that are used as a very hard, low friction component for various gears and mechanical elements. Interestingly, they are a crystalline form of Al2O3 (aluminum oxide -- the same stuff as is formed when you anodize aluminum!). Also interesting is that abuse of the advertising of how many jewels in a movement (e.g. useless jewels) led to an actual ISO standard for what could be considered a jewel.

A very interesting watchmaker: Phillipe Dufour
. Mr Dufour has worked for Jaeger and Audemars among others and has been making his own watches since 1989. His watches are stunning, elegant and it seems like some watch aficionados think that they are superior to Patek et al. Having seen some photos comparing the calibers, I am inclined to agree! This guy (who seems to be from Grenoble!) has some nice pictures of his visit to pick up his watch.

High end watches are *expensive*. I think that most people think of Rolex as the quintessential "ridiculously expensive watch", but at several thousand dollars for the non marquee models, they are at the very low end of the ridiculous. One thing that I think people are not aware of, is that the servicing of these watches alone (every 5 years or so) can themselves cost several thousand dollars


Seiko makes a quartz regulated mechanical watch that they sell for $145,000. It is meant to showcase their skills.

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